Kitchen Epiphanies

KITCHEN epiphanies

Exploring diverse foodways...

Turban Squash — Not Just for Show

When I check out at the grocery with a turban squash in my basket, the person behind me often leans over and asks what I do with it.  Occasionally I am asked whether I will use it as a centerpiece or as a tureen for soup.  I explain that I will stuff and bake it in the oven and enjoy this squash as a side dish.  The usual response to my explanation is “I did not know it was edible.”  “It is delicious, a nice change from acorn and butternut,” I reply.

I am a sucker for winter squash.  Each fall when I see a bountiful harvest of orange, yellow, white and green globes of all sizes on roadside stands, I stop and inspect the offerings.  Even though I go with the good intention of buying something for dinner, I never buy just one and it takes me a while to select what I want.  On a recent trip to southern Wisconsin, I bought two acorn squash, a butternut, a kabocha, a turban, three pie pumpkins and a large jack o’ lantern pumpkin, even though we stopped carving faces years ago.

Winter squashes and pumpkins by Slava Johnson)

The squash and pumpkins are part of the Curcubita genus — the gourd family—which originated in the New World in the 15th century.  Winter squash are classified as Curcubita maxima; pumpkins, a cultivar of squash plant, as Curcubita pepeo. There are numerous varieties of winter squash: some are sweeter, others firmer in texture, all suitable for stuffing, roasting for soups, purées, pasta filling, breads or desserts. Because of their hard skins, winter squashes keep well.  In fact, old farm cookbooks say that in a cold cellar, winter squash will keep until spring.  But this is never an issue at our house since squash are usually consumed within a few weeks from purchase.

While all winter squash are edible, acorn and butternut are the most popular in America.   The weirder–shaped squash are often confused with their inedible phylogenetic relatives – the gourds.  Many people consider the turban squash ornamental and instead use it as merely a harvest festival decoration.

Turban Squash by Slava Johnson

As part of my fall season cooking ritual, I like cooking each squash differently.  Butternut squash becomes a creamy soup on Thanksgiving, served with cheddar cheese puff pastry straws, or sometimes a filling for ravioli.  Acorn squash is roasted with brown sugar and butter.  Kabocha is often mashed with ginger, maple syrup and heavy cream.  But the turban is stuffed with sausage.

The turban squash, also known as “Turk’s turban” or “French turban” (“Giraumon” in French), is closely related to the buttercup squash, typically weighing 4-6 pounds when mature. Colors vary but are often mottled in shades of orange, green, and white. Turban squashes include several varieties with a deep, nutty flavor. All have a distinctive wide base and a thinner top half, a little like a head turban. Turban squash are cooked until al dente and its pulp can be mashed with a fork..

Turban Squash --just baked by Slava Johnson

Turban Squash Stuffed with Sausage

1 turban squash, about 4 pounds (2 k)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 stalk celery
1 small onion
1 pound (454 g) fresh pork sausage, mild or hot, removed from casings
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1 pinch red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons fresh sage, minced
½ teaspoon parsley, chopped

Pre-heat oven to 350°F(180°C).

Place turban squash on a damp dishtowel to prevent skidding. With a sharp knife, carefully cut off the turban top where it joins the body of the squash.  Scoop out seeds and connective membrane and discard. With a melon baller or spoon, scoop out the squash pulp, both turban top and bottom, leaving a ½ to ¾ inch wall all around. Chop removed pulp and set aside.  Season squash shell with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper and set aside.

In a large frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil.  Add onion and celery and sauté until translucent and tender.  Remove vegetables and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to the pan, then add sausage and continue sautéing until browned.  Add reserved squash pulp, onions and celery, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper and 1 tablespoon of sage and continue to sauté over low heat for 3 – 4 minutes until squash flesh is soft.  Stir in breadcrumbs.

While stuffing is cooking, attach two large sheets of foil (large enough to cover and seal in squash) with a double fold.  Place squash shell on foil.  Wipe away any visible liquid in the squash interior with a paper towel and fill squash with hot stuffing, mounding filling so it fills the turban top when placed as a lid.

Wrap foil tightly around stuffed squash, sealing the top of foil with a double fold.  Place on rimmed baking sheet and bake in the oven for 45-50 minutes.  Remove from oven and let squash rest on the counter for 5 minutes.  Open foil carefully to release steam.  With oven mitts, move to serving plate.  Squash can be served directly as baked or the filling can be scooped out into a serving bowl.  In either case, garnish with 1 tablespoon sage and 1 tablespoon parsley.

Turban Squash closeup by Slava Johnson

Delicious with roast chicken or turkey.

Turban Squash Cooked by Slava Johnson

Photo credits:  Slava Johnson

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