Kitchen Epiphanies

KITCHEN epiphanies

Exploring diverse foodways...

Ukraine

Crispy Potato Pancakes — a New Twist on an Old Classic

In our household, December meals are not usually vegetarian. But this year I included a dinner of Crispy Potato Pancakes with roasted carrots, labneh, and hot honey, inspired by Samin Nosrat’s recent podcast of Home Cooking, where she answered a question from a listener seeking advice on how to use four gallons of honey. Samin, a honey enthusiast, excitedly […]

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Poppy Seed Coconut Cherry Cake –A five-layer plyatsok from Ukraine

This elegant Poppy Seed Coconut Cherry Cake is a perfect holiday dessert for a large gathering. Poppy seed and coconut layers filled with cherry-flavored pastry cream and cherries, topped with chocolate glaze, are worthy of celebration. This creation is based on plyatsok, a sweet pastry beloved in Western Ukraine.  What is a plyatsok? Plyatsok (plyatsky,

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Black Sea Fish Soup with Spicy Sauce -Chornomorska Yushka with Salamur

Fish soup, called yushka or ukha (юшка or уха), is a classic dish, popular throughout Ukraine. This Black Sea Fish Soup, called Chornomorska (Black Sea) yushka, a version prepared along Ukraine’s southern shore where saltwater fish are abundant, can be easily prepared anywhere where fresh saltwater fish are available. Yushka is one of the oldest

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Pumpkin Noodle Babka or Kugel

This Pumpkin Noodle Babka is my recreation of a fall dish Babunia, my Ukrainian maternal grandmother Julianna Bulawka, improvised for Didunio, my grandfather Vasyl Bulawka.  It unites sweet cheese, sour cream custard with egg noodles and pumpkin, Ukraine’s favorite fall ingredient, in a noodle bake (she called harbuzova babka* or kugel (гарбузова бабка or куґель)

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Kapusnyak – Ukrainian Sauerkraut soup

Ukrainians love soup — hot, cold, meat or vegetable-based.  It’s served daily in homes and restaurants regardless of season.  Borshch, the quintessential Ukrainian soup, is a culinary staple recognized worldwide and inscribed on UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2022.  While borshch is consumed year-round, cooler weather restores the taste for

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Poured-Crust Cabbage Pie — and How Ukrainians Celebrate Midsummer

I first encountered this Poured-Crust Cabbage Pie at a picnic on the eve of Ivana Kupala, Ukraine’s midsummer celebration. Its thin crust enveloped a savory mixture of shredded young cabbage, other vegetables and spices.  It was perfect picnic food:  fresh, flavorful, easy to eat out of hand on a magical midsummer evening, leaving a lasting

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Rhubarb Tart with Crème Anglaise

When I was a kid, rhubarb dishes appeared on our family menu each May, confirming unequivocally that spring had finally arrived. Seeing a basket of bright red rhubarb at the local market enticed me to try this Rhubarb Tart with Crème Anglaise recipe that I’ve saved just for this occasion. Rhubarb is a perennial plant

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Carrot Oladky – Tender Carrot Pancakes from Ukraine

These Carrot Oladky (morkvyani oladky – морквяні оладки in Ukrainian) are one of many dairy-based dishes eaten during Masnytsia or Syrny Tyzhden (translated as Butter Week or Cheese Week). Masnytsia is Ukrainian carnivale which takes place a week before the start of Lent, which often occurs at the end of February or in the first

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Pistachio Napoleon Torte – a Twist on a Ukrainian Classic

This Pistachio Napoleon Torte is my twist on the traditional Ukrainian Napoleon. In my childhood, Napoleon Torte was the epitome of a fancy dessert made only for special occasions by my aunt Titka Maria or Mama. Years later, when I began working in Ukraine, I learned this torte was adored by other Ukrainians and prepared

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