I was inspired to bake this Greek Rag Pie after I saw Nigella Lawson prepare a similar pie on a late-night rerun of the BBC‘s show Simply Nigella. She named it Old Rag Pie and said it was the Greek bakers’ way of using leftover phyllo scraps.
I don’t know why Nigella named the recipe “old” as it does not fit the definition of patsavouropita (πατσαβουροπιτα), its Greek name. In Greek, patsavoura has several meanings. Literally, it is a rag for mopping up. But it also has several derogatory meanings: a patsavoura is one who is considered “a wet mop“or an unattractive or loose woman. In connection with this pie, this word describes its ragged, disorderly and carelessly assembled appearance. But this pie’s name does not reflect its taste.
Since I had several boxes of frozen phyllo, I was anxious to put them to good use. I wanted to learn more about rag pies and scoured both English and Greek language patsavouropita recipes online. My brief research showed there are no hard and fast rules about preparation of Greek Rag Pie, but all rag pies have the same basic ingredients: phyllo, which all Greek cooks have on hand, in full, torn or scrunched sheets or chopped into small squares, an assortment of cheeses: feta and other Greek cheeses such as halumi (a semi-hard, unripened, brined cheese made from a mixture of goat’s and sheep’s milk or also cow’s milk), graviera ( a hard rind sweet and fruity cheese made of cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk), mizithra (fresh cheese made with milk and whey from sheep or goats, or both, often substituted by Italian ricotta), parmesan and even scraps of cheddar and other semi-hard cheeses. Various combinations of milk, yogurt and eggs usually complete the filling. Butter or olive oil are used to moisten the phyllo leaves.
Most rag pies consist of these elements in various degrees, or alone. What intrigued me about Nigella Lawson’s and other Greek rag pie recipes was the claim of the pie’s versatility. Most recipes praised it for being both savory and sweet; that the basic cheese-phyllo filling was mildly salty which lends itself to being served as a savory dish or a dessert.
Beyond these basic elements, however, everything else seems to be up to the cook with whatever ingredients are on hand, permitting unlimited creativity. For a distinctly savory pie, some Greek cooks add fresh herbs such as spring onions, dill, parsley, thyme, oregano, fennel fronds, chives, mint or thyme. Some cooks add vegetables and meats to the cheese filling: sundried tomatoes, ham, minced smoked turkey or smoked pork chops. Other cooks make the pie sweet from the outset by adding a few spoons of sugar and cinnamon, and even chopped golden raisins or apricots, to the cheese mixture.
I compared Nigella Lawson’s recipe with other Greek recipes I found and discovered that Nigella’s recipe was simplified, not the common recipe used by Greek cooks. Lawson’s recipe is more free-form than typical Greek recipes and uses less cheese. In her recipe, feta and parmesan are scattered over a base of torn and scrunched up phyllo, then flooded with an egg and milk custard mixture which fills in the spaces. See https://www.nigella.com/recipes/old-rag-pie
I opted for making the more traditional basic Greek version which contains one unusual ingredient: a can of club soda. Various recipes instructed to either “dump” an entire can of soda on the assembled pie just before putting it in the oven or mix club soda with the other liquids and cheese. In either event, the recipes’ authors claim that the soda acts as a leavening agent, making the rag pie lighter and fluffier. One recipe used a teaspoon of baking powder instead of the soda.
So with some trepidation, I poured a can of club soda over this Greek Rag Pie and plopped it in the oven, even though it looked like flooded mess. I’ll admit to being worried that I had correctly understood the Greek instructions and hoped for the best as I closely monitored the pie while it baked in the oven. Eventually, I observed the club soda evaporating and the top of the pie became progressively more golden.
The resulting Greek Rag Pie has a beautifully golden rustic appearance as if baked by a Greek grandmother — a yiayia. Whether savory or sweet, it is delectable, tempting you to eat another slice. It has a texture resembling a cheesy clafoutis – silken but firm. The phyllo, softened from the milk and egg mixture binding the cheese and the final dousing of club soda, loses it papery appearance as it is transformed into a flan-like custard interlaced with streaks of feta and parmesan. The mint provides subtle herbiness and freshness.
I tested this Greek Rag Pie’s alleged versatility, serving it once for a savory lunch with a tomato and onion salad lightly dressed in extra virgin olive oil, parsley and a few grains of sea salt and on another occasion, as a dessert with a topping of Greek orange blossom honey. Both versions were flavorful and wonderfully satisfying. I can easily see why Greek cooks uniformly claim that leftovers are not a problem because the patsavouropita is devoured quickly.
One pound of phyllo makes a very large Greek Rag Pie which is best on the day made. Leftovers, if any, should be refrigerated, wrapped tightly in plastic film. Slices are best reheated for l5-30 minutes in a pre-heated conventional oven at 300ºF (150°C) until piping hot, becoming crisp upon cooling.
This particular recipe is intended for a large group, and several Greek cooks suggest the pie be assembled in two pans, one for baking right away, the other to freeze for later use. Properly wrapped in plastic film and a zippered freezer or vacuum sealed bag, this rag pie freezes well for several months. It can be baked directly from the freezer for 45-55 minutes without defrosting in a cold conventional oven at 400ºF (200°C).
This recipe can easily be halved for an 8”x 8” (20 cm x 20 cm) baking pan, adjusting the cooking time accordingly. One Greek cook suggests making individual dessert rag pies by winding the cheese-filled phyllo inside the cups of a muffin tin. Sounds interesting and worth trying for a quick dessert.
Greek Rag Pie, adapted from www.kalofagas.ca
4-5 quart (4-5 liter) oblong, deep baking pan, glass, ceramic or metal (overall dimensions less important than volume)
1 pound (455 g) frozen phyllo pastry
¼ pound (113.4 g) unsalted butter or 4 ounces (108 g) olive oil
1-12 ounce (350 ml) can club soda
Filling:
2 cups (11 ounces; 311.8g) feta cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons (10g) parmesan, grated
2 cups (492g) whole milk ricotta
4 eggs
½ cup (123ml) milk
5-6 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped (substituted other herbs if desired)
Black pepper, freshly ground
Salt, taste feta before adding as it is often quite salty
Garnish for savory version:
Sesame seeds
Garnish for sweet version:
Greek wildflower and thyme honey or orange blossom honey
Granulated or muscovado sugar and cinnamon
Defrost phyllo overnight in the refrigerator. Remove from refrigerator 15 minutes before using to bring to room temperature.
Pre-heat oven to 375°F (190°C).
Melt butter, if using. Thoroughly butter or oil a suitable baking pan.
Combine the filling ingredients in a large bowl and whisk until blended, breaking up larger pieces of feta. (I only added pepper as the feta was salty.)
Place a sheet of phyllo on the work surface, covering remaining phyllo with plastic film to prevent drying out. Lightly brush the phyllo sheet with butter (or oil) and place another phyllo sheet on top. Butter (oil) phyllo again. Line the bottom of the baking pan with buttered (oiled) phyllo leaving a 2-inch overhang on all sides. Repeat lining baking pan with phyllo sheets until bottom is covered. Fold the overhanging phyllo behind the phyllo along the walls of the pan creating a pie rim.
Assembling the pie: Butter (oil) another sheet of phyllo and cover with another sheet of phyllo. Butter (oil) phyllo again. Spoon approximately 3 tablespoons of filling 1 inch away from one short end of the double buttered phyllo sheets, spreading a bit on phyllo sheet with an offset spatula. Start gathering the phyllo over the filling into 1-inch wide accordion pleats. Once pleated, using two hands, place the long strip against one side of the prepared baking pan. (The strips of pleated phyllo will be fragile. Do not fret if the pleated phyllo breaks in half as you pick it up. It won’t affect the appearance of the pie. Just place pieces in the pan.) Repeat until filling is used up, nestling subsequent pleated phyllo tightly and baking pan is filled.
Baking pie: When the baking pan is filled, brush the tops of the phyllo pleats with remaining butter (oil). With a very sharp knife, score the top of pie into serving pieces. Then pour the club soda over the pie and quickly place in the oven. (Do not pour club soda over pie if freezing a pan for later use but remember to pour soda over pan when ready to bake.) Bake for 35-45 minutes until golden and puffed, checking at about 25 minutes and cover with foil if browning too much.
Remove from oven when the internal temperature of pie reaches 160 °F (71 °C). (Residual heat will continue cooking pie while cooling.) Allow pie to cool for 10 minutes. Cut into pieces and serve as a side, snack, as part of a buffet or with a soup or salad. Best served warm.
Makes 16 hardy slices for lunch with a salad or 24 smaller portions as a side or dessert.
Savory as baked with salad
Dessert with orange-blossom honey
One year ago: http://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/silk-road-lamb-dried-fruit-plov/
Two years ago: http://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/asparagus-soup-la-cozinha-velha/
Three years ago: http://www.kitchenepiphanies.com/memorial-day-picnic-a-la-reuben/