This Cherry Almond Solozhenik (вишнево- міґдаловий соложеник in Ukrainian) is a vintage rustic dessert now regaining popularity as Ukrainian cooks highlight their culinary traditions and practices, refuting Russia’s repeated declarations that Ukraine is an invented country, and has no distinctive ethnic culture or traditions.
The name “solozhenik” applies to a range of traditional Ukrainian sweets. The Ukrainian word “solodke” (солодке) meaning sweet is the root of its name, and its closest possible English translation is “sweet treat.” Solozheniks are always sweet, never savory. The word “solozhenik” is always preceded by an adjective describing the filling (apple, cherry, almond, cheese, jam, poppyseed, etc.).
No one knows which region of Ukraine produced the first solozhenik since essential batter and filling ingredients are available seasonally everywhere. Culinary historians suggest the predominance of eggs and cream over flour in the recipe indicates this dessert was most likely prepared before Lent as the last chance to eat eggs and dairy before fasting or as a rich reward on Easter after 40 days of sacrifice. Culinary ethnographer Zіnovia Klynovetska, in her 1913 book Dishes and Drinks in Ukraine (Страви й напитки на Україні*), identifies seven solozhenik recipes (filled with jam, almonds, cream, cheese, apple, poppyseed and cherries), each of which incorporates a generous quantity of eggs and dairy, which she attributes to Easter baking.
This dessert was mentioned in Ukrainian literature over 200 years ago when home ovens were made of bricks or stone without a closed chamber for controlling temperature, and before commercially produced leaveners (yeast, baking soda or baking powder) were available to Ukrainian cooks. At that time, masonry ovens were used primarily for baking yeasted bread, slow cooking soups and stews, heating the house and providing a cozy sleeping place. There was no tradition of cake baking but Ukrainians loved sweets and firm solozhenik pancakes, leavened with stiff egg whites, were one of the precursers to baking cake layers without round cake pans in a skillet. The tart-sweet, cinnamony taste of apples and nutty pancake layers of a multi-layered apple solozhenik I enjoyed years ago was a culinary feat, baked in a skillet on the hearth of a masonry-built oven. Although solozhenik can now readily be prepared with contemporary kitchen equipment, I gained new respect for those Ukrainian cooks who developed and mastered this dessert centuries ago.
Masonry oven still in use in Ukrainian village
Ukrainian cooks created many solozhenik recipes and fillings, varying from region to region. In some regions, solozheniks are similar to a crêpe torte, but with thicker layers. Tender pancakes, leavened with egg whites, made from a batter of simple, farm ingredients – eggs, butter, heavy cream, sugar and a small amount of flour — are dry fried in a skillet and then layered with a sweet filling, enrobed with meringue and baked. In others, the pancakes are rolled around a filling, layered in a casserole, covered with meringue, and baked. Still, other cooks create a lazy version, where the batter and filling ingredients are mixed, placed in a baking dish, then coated with meringue before baking.
Apple solozhenik is the most popular version since apples are available throughout the country and the year. With cherries now in season, I prepared this cherry version for its dramatic appearance but I used frozen cherries** to substitute the fresh sour cherries used by Ukrainian cooks but are impossible to find in Chicago.
The recipe for this Cherry Almond Solozhenik is an adaptation of several 19th-century recipes which, aside from a list of ingredients, provide scant instructions on preparing and assembling the component parts. I retained the original ingredients but provide contemporary instructions.
To maintain its structural integrity and domed-layered shape, this Cherry Almond Solozhenik should be not more than five pancakes high. The cherry filling must be jam-like, thicker than conventional cherry pie filling. This recipe makes more layers than are needed for this dessert. Leftover pancakes can be refrigerated or frozen and, later, rolled around leftover cherry filling, if any, or other fruit jam and enjoyed as another dessert.
Despite its rural roots, this Cherry Almond Solozhenik is a surprisingly sophisticated and delightful dessert. The eggy pancake layers are delicate, fragrant with tasty hints of cream, almond and lemon, a perfect complement to the luscious, jam-like cherry filling with a subtle suggestion of cinnamon. The sweet vanilla-flavored meringue is both crunchy and tender.
This Cherry Almond Solozhenik is a showstopper with its golden pancakes, red cherry layers and a crown of lightly toasted meringue. My spouse said its taste was spectacular! It is rich and delectable, a perfect complement to tea, coffee or even a glass of milk as a dessert or snack any time of day, and even better the next day should there be leftovers. I will experiment with other fillings in the future.
Cherry Almond Cherry Solozhenik, adapted from Zinovia Klynovetska, Dishes and Drinks in Ukraine (Страви й напитки на Україні* and liberally from other recipes.
For the pancake batter:
2 large egg yolks
8 large eggs, yolks and whites separated
5 ⅓ ounces (150 g) sugar
¾ cups (90 g) dry white breadcrumbs (like Panko), finely ground in food processor or blender
4 ½ ounces (128 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
7 ounces (200 g) almond flour
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 cup (236 ml) heavy cream
¼ cup (59 ml) whole milk, if needed to thin batter
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
Pinch salt
For the filling:
16 ounces (454 g) frozen pitted Montmorency cherries
1 cup (200 g) sugar, more or less depending on sweetness of cherries
5 tablespoons Clear Jel cook-type** or substitute with potato starch
1 cup (237 ml) cherry juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon almond extract (optional)
⅛ teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
1 teaspoon lemon zest
For meringue:
4 egg whites
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
6 tablespoons (75 g) superfine sugar***
Pinch kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Preparing pancakes: Carefully separate eight cold eggs, putting all yolks into a mixer bowl and four whites each into two other bowls. Set aside at room temperature.
In a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream ten yolks with sugar until pale and fluffy. Gradually add breadcrumbs, almond flour and melted butter, alternating with cream and almond extract to create a smooth thick batter. (This batter is not pourable, but must be without lumps, spreadable with an offset spatula. A few additional tablespoons of cream may be added for spreadable consistency.) Cover and set aside for 30 – 40 minutes.
In a clean mixing bowl with a whisk attachment, beat four egg whites on medium low speed until foamy. Then add cream of tartar and salt and continue to whisk egg whites on the same medium low speed until stiff peaks are formed. (About 5 minutes for soft peak stage, and 10-12 minutes for stiff peaks.) Gently fold the stiff egg whites into the batter just before baking pancakes.
Preheat a 8-9 inch (20-23 cm) diameter non-stick skillet on medium heat. Stir the batter to a uniform consistency, adding a few tablespoons of milk if necessary. Lift the skillet off the heat and pour ½ cup of batter in the center of the ungreased hot skillet, immediately spread the batter in a circular motion evenly around the pan. Cook until bubbles appear on the surface and edges start to brown, about 3-4 minutes.
Once a pancake is lightly brown, using an offset spatula, loosen the sides and flip to the other side. Cook the pancake on the other side for 1-2 minutes or until pancake is cooked through. Remove pancake to a plate and repeat with the remaining batter. When finished baking pancakes, cover with parchment or plastic film and set aside. (Makes: Five to eight 8-9 inches (20-23 cm) diameter pancakes, depending on diameter of pan and thickness of batter.)
Preparing cherry filling: Defrost frozen cherries and drain, reserving the juices.
Frozen sour cherries
Combine Clear Jel powder (or potato starch) with sugar and cinnamon, if using, and mix thoroughly. Sprinkle sugar mixture over cherries and stir to ensure thorough coating. Set aside for 30 minutes until the cherries release juice.
Transfer cherries and sugar mixture to a saucepan. Add accumulated juices, additional cherry and lemon juice (or reserved juices from frozen cherries) and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until thickened and juice becomes a clear, thick jelly. Add almond extract and lemon zest. Taste for tartness. Add sugar if needed and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat and cool completely. (If the filling is refrigerated overnight, bring to room temperature before assembling torte.)
Cooked cherry filling
Assembling the solozhenik: For easy transfer of pastry from oven to a serving dish, assemble on a rimless baking sheet or a bottom from a springform baking pan, well buttered and sprinkled with ground breadcrumbs, as base.
Assembling solozhenik
Place one pancake on the base and spoon cherries in a circle in the middle, leaving an inch (2.5 cm) border along the edge and ensuring the filling is no more than one cherry thick, spreading a thin jelly coating along the edge. Top with another pancake. Spoon cherries in a slighty smaller circle, spreading the jelly to edge. Lightly compact the layers and edges with your hands so that pancakes adhere. Continue alternating pancakes, reducing the diameter of the cherry filling with each layer until all filling is incorporated or until four or five layers are completed. The last layer should not be topped with filling. When solozhenik is done, wrap in plastic wrap until meringue is prepared.
Preparing meringue topping and baking: Heat oven to 410-482ºF (210-250 ºC).
In a stand mixer’s bowl, combine the remaining four egg whites, cream of tartar, sugar and salt.
Heat a few inches of water in a large saucepan to a simmer. Set the mixer bowl over the simmering water, ensuring the water does not touch the bottom of the bowl.
Continuously but gently, stir egg mixture until the egg whites are very warm to the touch and sugar has dissolved, about 4 minutes. (Test by rubbing egg whites between your fingers—the mixture should not be grainy and should be very warm to the touch.)
Transfer bowl to a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat egg whites on medium-low speed until foamy, about 2 minutes.
Gradually increase mixer speed and beat until you achieve glossy, stiff peaks that droop slightly when you lift the whisk, and the bottom and sides of bowl no longer feel warm to the touch, about 10 minutes. Add vanilla extract and beat a few seconds to mix in.
Frosted with meringue
Decoratively spread or pipe the meringue over the torte and sides. Bake for 15 minutes or until the meringue tips are golden brown.
Out of the oven
Remove from oven and cool on counter for 20 minutes. Then transfer to serving plate and continue to cool to room temperature before cutting.
Cover solozhenik with a cloche or bowl and refrigerate.
Servings: 8-10
* Зиновія Клиновецька, Страви й напитки на Україні, Київ, 1913. (Zіnovia Klynovetska, Dishes and Drinks in Ukraine, Kyiv, 1913, reprinted by Chasy Publisher, 1991).
**Clear Jel, a modified corn starch used by commercial bakeries for fruit pies, can be purchased online. I use Hoosier Hill Farm Clear Jel Cooktype Powder, available online, which requires heat to trigger jelling and works best for pie filling made with uncooked fruit. Note that another version of this thickener, Clear Jel Instant does not require heat and jells on contact with liquid but works best with cooked fruit fillings.
***Superfine sugar can be made by processing 8 tablespoons granulated sugar for 1 minute. Measure out 6 tablespoons for this recipe.
Photo credits: All photos, Slava Johnson
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